North Yorkshire: Whitby, Runswick Bay and Staithes
I’ve been blessed to be in this part of the country on many an occasion and always enjoyed the variety of rugged scenery, interesting coastline and attractive villages in the area. For those with an interest in walking may I at this point recommend the following website extolling the virtues of the wonderful Cleveland Way, a 109 mile long national trail which in part, hugs the coastline of this county.
Although I concentrate primarily on the outdoor aspects of North Yorkshire there is something for all in this part of the world and on that note I’ll begin with one of the area’s busiest resorts, Whitby.
WHITBY
Whitby has always seemed a town of two parts to me. There is undoubtedly the ‘fish and chip, amusement arcades and ice cream’ area but there is much history here worthy of digging up too. Noted as the home of Captain Cook, the house he lived in as a young man can be visited for a small charge. Additionally its very worthwhile taking a stride up the ‘199 Steps’ (count ‘em) to the prominent Whitby Abbey overlooking the town. The town also has decent safe beaches for the kids to gambol on whilst there are plenty of pubs and amusements for mum and dad at night. A time of year to watch out for is the Whitby Folk Festival which even for those who are not fans makes the place come to life with live music in the pubs during August.
The busy harbour is good to stroll and offers the largest car park nearby. Beware though because sometimes parking can be a real problem in this town. I have personally enjoyed my times staying just outside the Whitby, taking a bit more life in within the town on an evening.
RUNSWICK BAY AND STAITHES
Two of my favourite places in the UK situated along the cliffs of North Yorkshire. Most will be familiar with Robin Hood’s
Bay and these two villages are in many ways similar though much less commercialised or well known. They are both ancient fishing villages and extremely attractive for that. Each has a huge steep access road down to the villages which sit by the water. They both feature higgledy-piggledy tiny cottages crammed in together in a random fashion and are a joy to explore.The great thing about these two places is that they make a very pleasant walk between them along the cliff tops, adhering to The Cleveland Way. The distance between them is around 2.5 miles and takes perhaps an hour. A lovely thing to do is stroll between them and take in magnificent views over the North Sea. Runswick Bay, (pronounced Runzick Bay) has a quaint pub and a café whilst Staithes has a beauty of a pub which sits right by the water named The Cod and Lobster. Do yourself a favour if you find yourself in this part of the world and pop inside for a pint of Yorkshire ale and sit outside and peruse the waves. I’ve sat for hours doing this and never wanted to move from that spot.
Staithes also offers a large segment of Captain Cooke’s story as he lived and worked here as a young man. Additionally the lovely harbour in the village is much photographed for calendars etc. The views always show the local ancient round-bottomed fishing boats called cobles which are unique to this beautiful area.
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The Tracks of My Tears
Hi. My name is Stuart Frew and I like to write stuff. That’s why I spent so much time over this intro. There’s no great theme here
apart from the convoluted wasteland that I like to call my mind. I like to talk about places I’ve been, stories I’ve heard and ramble on a little about sport and music too. Currently I’m completing a Masters Degree in Psychology. No, I can’t read your mind.
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Teardrops
Nice post Stuart, glad you like our little bit of Yorkshire. The boat in the foreground of your Runswick Bay pic (The Nagar) is owned by a friend. A bit of Runswick folklore – people who lived down Runswick Bank were called ‘Nagars’. And in other local news, Runswick Bay Hotel (I have no financial interest in this) has a new landlord who is doing disturbing things like keeping excellent Black Sheep beer and serving good food.
Cheers LT and thanks for the local info there, I had no idea about that.
Yes the area has always been a favourite of mine and is very much on my mind to re-visit for a bit of walking very soon. This will no doubt take in the Runswick Bay Hotel and the Crab and Lobster amongst others. :-) I have to say that Yorkshire as a County has practically everything one could want – such variety.
Thanks for dropping by.
Good to see someone appreciates Runswick and a stunning picture!
Can I correct Lunartalks though – a Nagar is a person who was “born” in the village, not someone who lives there and it’s not folklore they’re still alive!
And isn’t the pub in Staithes called the Cod and Lobster?
If you haven’t already walked from Sandsend to Runswick or vice versa I can highly recommend it.
Thanks very much for the comments. Yes it’s a beautiful and rare little place indeed. Thanks for the correction too – ‘Cod and Lobster’ it is!
I was born 1938 and raised in the Boro and would bike to Staihes during the summer with friends to camp on the cliff top.
This was back around 195O-53 unfortunately one of my freinds was killed falling down the cliff after Gulls eggs(So let that be a lesson to adventurous kids)
As the tide was going out we would walk along the rocks as far as Sandsend then hitch a ride back to Staithes.
I haved lived in the USA for 29 years my wife is American and loves that area, we visit everytime we go to see our grand children who live in Yorkshire.
Also when researching the family tree my cousin in NZ traced the family naes back to the book ‘The Nagars of Runswick Bay”
HI Malcom, thanks for dropping by with your interesting stories of Staithes and the area. I’m sure you have many happy memories of those days. I love that area with it’s great scenery and views from the cliff tops. The villages are all so quaint too. I think it’s great walking country generally, not just on the magnificent Cleveland Way either. Truly that part of North Yorkshire has so much to offer.
I can second that, Nagars are folk who were born in the bay. Why then is the boat in the picture called the Nagar when it was in fact built in Sandsend by Tony Goodall?! I’ve never been able to understand that despite my father owning her for a good number of years…
Another fun walk (at low tide) is long the base of the cliff from Runswick to Port Mulgrave, back up the cliff then home along the top of the cliff.
Glad you appreciate the bay anyway.
jg
Thanks for the comments JG, particularly the local knowledge. It’s been way too long since I’ve been up that way. I must visit and try that walk soon. Thanks!
Hi From Arizona USA
This is a follow up to my Feb 8th comment.
I was contacted by another cousin I have not seen for about 50 years. She is conducting research on family history and was in Runswick bay two weeks ago.
She told me that my great,great grandmother,on my mothers side who was a Tose from Runswick bay.
Anyone out there who knows about them???
Mac Dixon
Hi Malcolm
Tose is or was a really well known name in the area along with Clark.
I think there is a picure of a man named Tose in the Fishermans Institute at Runswick. Did your cousin have a look in there? The Nagars book is probably the best point of reference. If I find the picture I’ll let you know.
I hold up my hands and confess to never being further North than Watford but feeling brave this year myself and 3 girls are off on an adventure to stay in Staithes 1st week of August wondered if there were any particular events going on in the area during that time. having looked at the comments and attributes of the area now looking forward to the holiday so thanks for the tips on walking.
Wow! Greatest small county there.
Hi Helen, I think you will all have a great time up there. There’s nothing not to like! The major festival up there in the summer is the Whitby Folk Fair which is a lot of fun though that’s probably a little later in the month than when you’re there. I’d look on guides for Whitby in general for events and the like. Staithes is a very small home-spun place but nevertheless instantly likeable – like practically every where else along that stretch of coast.
Have a great holiday with your friends!
Hi there; I am trying to find out about some of my ancestors who kept the Runswick Bay Hotel before the 1st World War. The family name was Robinson. My Grandmother, Bertha Robinson,who I believe was the daughter of the hotel owners, met and eventually married my Grandfather, Wynn Hoyland who came from Sheffield. The Hoyland family used to holiday at their home in Runswick called Ash Cottage.This is mentioned in J.S.Johnsons lovely book, The Nagars of Runswick Bay (page 4). Any help appreciated !
Thank you
Charles Hoyland
Hello Charles
Thank you for your comment. I hope that someone comes along here and is able to help you with your quest. The very best of luck with it!
Hello, I am trying to find anyone who has connection with
Robinson family my grandfather was called James Miller
robinson he was born in Hinderwell in 1877 his father was
called James miller Robinson and his mother was called
Hannah .I think she had been married before to a William
Johnson and had some children but was widowed and then she
married James Miller Robinson they had one child James,
my grandfather, iam also trying to find out how name
Miller fits in if anyone can help i would be willing to
travel to see them.
thankyou for any help
Bryan Healeas
Hello, We are ‘family tree-ing’ for a friend and would like to know if anyone has info regarding a Staithes man who was a lay preacher in the early 20th century. His name was John Shaw and we believe he wrote stories for the Whitby Gazette.